Home load calculator: watts, daily units and solar size

How the home load calculation works

The home load calculator adds up your appliances in three steps. First, it multiplies each appliance's watts by its quantity to give your connected load, the power your home would draw with everything on at once. Second, it multiplies watts by quantity and by hours of daily use to give your energy, the units (kWh) your home burns in a day and in a month. Third, it reads your backup selection and your daily units against fixed size bands and names a UPS, generator and solar size that fits.

The two numbers answer different questions. Connected load decides how big your inverter or generator must be, since equipment fails on watts, not on units. Daily units decide your bill and your solar size, since a solar system must replace energy over a day, not power at an instant. A home can have a modest connected load and a heavy daily bill, or the reverse, and the calculator keeps the two figures separate for that reason.

Every preset watt figure in the tool is editable. Presets describe a typical appliance from the Pakistan market, and your own unit's nameplate sticker outranks any preset on this page.

Appliance watt table

The table below lists the preset values the calculator starts from, with the units each appliance burns in a typical day at common hours of use.

ApplianceTypical wattsUnits per hourTypical hoursUnits per day
LED bulb90.00960.05
Ceiling fan (old)800.08120.96
Ceiling fan (inverter, BLDC)350.035120.42
Refrigerator (medium)1500.15101.50
LED TV 43 in1000.1050.50
Air conditioner 1 ton inverter1,0001.0088.00
Air conditioner 1.5 ton inverter1,5001.50812.00
Iron1,0001.0011.00
Washing machine5000.5010.50
Water motor 1 HP7500.7510.75
Microwave oven1,2001.200.50.60
Electric kettle1,5001.500.50.75
Wi-Fi router100.01240.24
Electric geyser2,0002.0024.00

One pattern in the chart surprises most readers. A single inverter air conditioner at eight hours a day burns more units than the fans, lights, fridge and television of the whole house combined. Any plan to cut a bill, or to size a solar system, starts with the air conditioner hours and works down from there.

How the size bands are decided

The table below states the exact band logic the calculator uses, so you can check any result by hand.

OutputFormulaBands the result rounds up to
UPS or inverter sizeBackup watts divided by 0.8 power factor700, 1000, 1400, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5500 VA
Generator sizeTotal connected watts times 1.3 surge margin, divided by 10001, 2.5, 3.5, 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 kVA
Solar system sizeDaily units divided by 4.2 units per kW per day1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20 kW

Each formula carries one planning judgement, and the page states all three openly. The 0.8 divisor converts watts into the volt-ampere rating that inverters carry on their boxes. The 1.3 generator margin covers motor starting surges from fridges, freezers and pumps. The 4.2 figure is a conservative planning average for the daily units one kilowatt of rooftop panels produces in Pakistan after losses; a shaded roof produces less, and a clean, well-angled roof can produce more.

The backup column deserves one more line. Only the appliances you mark for backup enter the UPS formula. Air conditioners and geysers usually stay off the backup line, which is why a home with 4,682 connected watts can sit behind a 1000 VA inverter at night without a single trip.

Worked examples

A small flat with everything on backup

Four LED bulbs at 9 W run six hours, two ceiling fans at 80 W run ten hours, a 150 W refrigerator runs eight hours, and a 100 W television runs five hours. The connected load is 36 plus 160 plus 150 plus 100, which is 446 W. The daily energy is 216 plus 1,600 plus 1,200 plus 500 watt-hours, which is 3.52 units a day and 105.5 units a month. The UPS band is 700 VA, the generator band is 1 kVA, and the solar band is 1 kW.

A 5 marla family home

A 1.5 ton inverter AC at 1,500 W runs eight hours, a 1 ton unit at 1,100 W runs six hours, a 200 W refrigerator runs ten hours, four 80 W fans run twelve hours, eight LED bulbs run six hours, and a washing machine, a 750 W water motor and two 120 W televisions fill the rest of the day. The connected load comes to 4,682 W, or 4.68 kW. Daily energy totals 27.32 units, and the month lands near 819.7 units. The backup selection of fans, lights and televisions draws only 632 W, so the UPS band is 1000 VA, while the generator band is 7.5 kVA and the solar band is 8 kW.

A student room

A 75 W fan runs eight hours, three LED bulbs run seven hours, a 65 W laptop runs six hours, and a 10 W router never sleeps. The connected load is just 177 W, and the day uses 1.42 units, about 42.6 units a month. Even a small room rounds up to the 700 VA UPS band and the 1 kVA generator band, since equipment sizes start there.

Summer load through the season

The candles below track the family home from the worked examples across the hot months. Each candle shows a low day, the average day and a high day in units.

The candles stretch in June and July and narrow again in September, and appliance count explains almost none of that movement. The same house, with the same devices, burns 24 units on an April day and 37 units on a July peak day because the air conditioners run longer and start against hotter rooms. Solar sizing that uses a winter month as its base underbuilds the system for the two months that matter most.

Common mistakes when sizing backup and solar

Asking the shopkeeper a question with no numbers in it. "Which UPS runs two fans and four lights" invites a guess. A written load list turns the same visit into arithmetic, and arithmetic does not trip at night.

Forgetting the refrigerator's starting surge. A fridge draws a multiple of its running watts for a few seconds at each start. Two appliances starting together can trip an inverter that handles either one alone.

Sizing solar from the bill total instead of daily units. Bills mix fixed charges, taxes and slab effects into one number. Daily units describe your actual energy, and the meter gives them to you for free with two readings a day apart.

Trusting preset watts over the nameplate. Presets are starting points. The sticker on your own motor, fridge or AC states its real rating, and the tool lets you type that figure over any preset.

Why I built this calculator

I bought my first UPS for the family home in Multan the way most people buy one. I walked into the shop and asked which unit runs two fans and four lights. The shopkeeper sold me a 1000 VA inverter, and the inverter tripped on the first night, because the refrigerator had quietly joined the backup line and nobody had added its starting surge to anything.

The next evening I sat down with the inverter manual, a notebook and a phone torch, and I read the nameplate sticker on every appliance in the house. Fan by fan, light by light, the notebook filled with the load list that this calculator is built on. The corrected purchase, made after measuring instead of before, never tripped again. With time I also stopped blaming the shopkeeper for that first night. He had not been dishonest; I had asked him a question with no numbers in it, so he answered with no numbers, and the inverter settled the bill for that vagueness at 2 a.m.

The tools I searched for online during that week failed me in two directions. Half of them listed American appliances my house has never owned. The other half announced a solar size with no load maths behind it at all. A Pakistani home needs its own list: the water motor, the inverter fan, the geyser, the two kinds of air conditioner. To this day I add the refrigerator's starting surge on top of any result by hand, and I read each nameplate figure twice before I trust a band, because the surge is the one number that caught me. That list lives in the tool above, and the guides below take each part of it, the surge, the meter, the installer quote, and give it the space it deserves.

Guides on home load, UPS and solar

Questions people ask about this page

Does this calculator work for a shop or an office?

Yes, within limits. The maths is the same: watts times hours gives units, and the size bands scale up. A shop with three-phase supply, large motors or a commercial tariff should take the load sheet to an electrician, since starting currents and phase balance sit outside a home tool.

Why does the UPS size use only the items I marked for backup?

A UPS carries a home through loadshedding, not through a normal day. Air conditioners, irons and geysers usually stay off the backup line, so the inverter only needs the fans, lights, fridge and screens you marked. Sizing the UPS from the full connected load buys a bigger inverter than the house will ever ask for at 2 a.m.

How accurate are the preset watts in the appliance list?

The presets are typical Pakistan market values, and your own appliance can differ by 10 to 20 percent. The nameplate sticker on the appliance itself is the better figure, and every watt field in the tool is editable for that reason. For a bill-level estimate, a week of meter readings beats any preset.

What per-unit rate should I enter for a bill estimate?

Read the rate from your own last bill, since Pakistani tariffs move by slab and by distribution company. Divide the energy charge on the bill by the units consumed and enter that number. The tool then multiplies your monthly units by your rate and shows a planning estimate, not a tariff quote.

Can the suggested solar size run an air conditioner?

An inverter air conditioner, yes, in most cases, because an inverter unit ramps up gently. A non-inverter unit pulls a hard starting surge, and the system needs headroom above the running watts. The solar band here comes from your daily units, so add the AC hours honestly and let the band reflect them.

Facts, checked against trusted sources

  • Standby power accounts for about 5 to 10 percent of residential energy use in US homes, per the US Department of Energy. Source: US Department of Energy
  • LED bulbs use at least 75 percent less energy than incandescent lighting and last up to 25 times longer, per the US Department of Energy. Source: US Department of Energy

Guides and worked examples for this tool

What a 1 HP water motor adds to your monthly electricity bill

Three tank fills a day put 45 units a month on my bill. I timed the fills for a week, cut one run, and the motor line fell to 30 units.

1 ton vs 1.5 ton inverter AC: the load and bill maths side by side

I metered a 1 ton and a 1.5 ton inverter AC across two summers in my own house. In the big room, the bigger unit used fewer units per night than the small one straining.

How to check a solar installer's quote against your own load sheet

Three quotes, three sizes, and the padding hid in the paperwork. I check every line of a solar quote against my own load sheet before anyone signs.

Why your refrigerator keeps tripping the UPS at night

My UPS kept tripping at 3 a.m. on a steady load of only 645 W. The culprit was a three second surge nobody had budgeted for. Here is the test that proved it.

Generator or UPS: which backup your load actually needs

A wedding doubled my home load in one afternoon and one rented generator was not enough. The load list, not the label on the box, decides which backup fits.

The hidden loads: small devices that burn units all day

I audited my own home with a plug meter on a Sunday and found 103 W of always-on draw, about 74 units a month. Here is the ranked list and the fixes.

How to read your electricity meter and find your real daily units

My meter was not faulty. Seven days of readings at the same hour proved it, and caught the appliance that was inflating the bill instead.

Inverter fans vs old ceiling fans: the watt difference on a real bill

I swapped four old 80 W ceiling fans for 35 W inverter fans and tracked two Februaries and two Marches of bills. The fan line saves 75.6 units a month at summer hours.

How many solar panels a 5 marla house in Pakistan actually needs

Three installers quoted me 3, 5 and 10 kW for the same 5 marla roof. One week of my own meter readings settled it: 27.3 units a day needs the 8 kW band.

How I calculated my home load before buying a UPS, and what I got wrong first

I sized my first UPS with a question that had no numbers in it, and it tripped on the first night. Here is the notebook load list I use now, watts first.